Sewing machine



Dec. 9, 1941. SUMMERS ET'AL 2,265,678

SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan 12, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR fl/berl Lawreflae jam/27ers Harry J/afer ATTORNEIY -9,19 1. G. L. SUMMERS Em 2,265,618

SEWING MACHINE I Filed Jan. 12, 1959 5 sheets-sheet '2 Z BY {KT/77 J/dfer Dec. 9, 1941. G. L. SUMMERS ETAL 2,265,678

SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1959 5 Sfiets-Sheet s INVENTOR q/fierfLaw/zwce 50/77/276/3 Y Harry J/afer ATTO R N EY 9, 1941- G. SUMMERS ETAL 2,265,678

SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1939 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR gV/berf Lawrence Juli/mans l/arryJ/afea ATTORNEY Patented Dec. 9, 1941 SEWING MACHINE Gilbert Lawrence Summers and Harry Slater,

Nottingham,

land, assignors to Wiilcox &

E s Gibbs Sewing Machine 00., New York, N. Y., a company of New York Application January 12, 1939, Serial No. 250,458 In Great Britain November 19, 1938 12 Claims. (Cl. 112162) The present invention relates to improvements in thread-handling devices for sewing machines, particularly over-edge sewing machines.

More especially, the present invention relates to improvements in machines of the type described and shown in United States Patent No.-

2,157,369 and the divisions thereof.

It is one of the objects of the present invention to provide an improved overedge sewing machine which is capable of being used to form single-, double-, and triple-thread overedge seams, and also different types of doubleand triple-thread seams.

It is a further important object of the inventlon to provide a simple mechanism for controlling the various threads supplied to the sewing mechanism of such a machine to permit operation thereof at very high speeds, and to prevent snarling, whipping and knotting of the threads during such operation.

Another object of the invention is the provision of an overedge sewing machine with highly em- Fig. 3 is a fragmentary side view, seen from the left of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary front view of the machine shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary cross-section along line 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is a perspective detail view of the needleoperating mechanism.

Fig. '1 is a fragmentary front view of the lower and overedge loopers.

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the guide for controlling the threads intermediate the supply and the tensions.

Fig. 9 is a detail view of the movable take-up finger according to the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the stationary thread-controlling and -guiding means which are cient common thread-handling means for con- I trolling all of the threads supplied to the sewing mechanism.

It is another object of the invention to pro vide simple means for setting the sewing mechanism to form either single--,- doubleor triplethread overedge seams, and also means for adjusting the thread-handling and -guiding means relative to each other to vary the type of doubleor triple-thread seams in a quick and easy manner.

Features of the invention are the provision of a single movable member of .improved construction which: controls all of the threads supplied to the needle and loopers; is moved in at least two directions and operates upon at least one thread in both directions; operates at least upon the needle thread in two directions of movement and upon at least one looper thread in at least one direction; takes up or tensions at least one of the threads in both directions of movement; and pulls off new thread from the supply during a part of its movement in one direction.

Further objects, features and advantages will appear from the following detailed description of the invention and the drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a fragmentary perspectiv view of an overedge sewing machine according to the invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine shown in Fig. l.

associated with the movable take-up finger.

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic view showing one stage of the operation of the take-up finger.

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 11 and showing another stage in the movement of the take-up finger.

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary detail view of the loopers used for forming a single-thread overedge seam.

Fig. 14 is an enlarged view of the single-thread overedge seam formed by the machine of the present invention.

Fig. 15 is a detail view of the loopers provided by the present invention to form a double-thread overedge seam.

Fig. 16 is an enlarged view of one form of double-thread overedge seam.

Fig. 17 is a view similar to Fig. 15 but shows a. modified looper arrangement for forming a slightly different type of double-thread seam.

Fig. 18 is an enlarged view of the modified form r of double-thread seam.

Fig. 19 is a fragmentary view of the main form of loopers used with the present invention for forming triple-thread overedge seams.

Fig. 20 is an enlarged view of one form of triple-thread overedge seam formed by the pres ent invention.

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 20 and shows a modified form of triple-thread overedge seam formed by the present invention.

Before describing the present improvements and mode of operation thereof in detail it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts shown in the accompanying drawings, which are merely illustrative of the present preferred embodiments, since the invention is capable of other embodiments, and the phraseology assume Figs. and 7 comprise a lower looper mechanism 31 and an overedge looper mechanism 38 the latter having a retracted position under the work plate 3|, shown in full lines in Fig. 7, and an advanced operating position above the work plate and the materials being sewed, as shown in dotand-dash lines in Fig. 7. These looper mechanisms, cooperating with the needle I9, are capable of forming a single-, doubleand triplethread seam, (United States Federal Specification for Stitches, Seams, and Stitching", Type 501, 502, 503, 504 and 505), shown in Figs. 14, 16, 18, 20 and 21, respectively. However, as described hereinafter, the proper formation of these various stitches also depends in a large measure upon the operation and adjustment of the thread-handling mechanism 34, including thread-tensioning, take-up, control and guiding mechanisms according to the present invention. Since the accompanying drawings 11- lustrate primarily the mechanisms, for forming triple-thread stitches (Figs. 20 and 21), these mechanisms will be described first.

The lower looper mechanism 31. comprises a crank arm 89 pivotally mounted at its upper end on crank 46 of the main drive shaft 45 by means of a ball and socket joint 8| secured toally mounted in a suitable bearing on the depending housing 44. A looper carrier arm 85 is likewise secured to shaft 85, thus with arm 83 forming a bell crank lever which is adapted to pivot about the axis of shaft 85. The lower looper I9 is secured to the carrier arm 88 by screws 81 and may thus be easily exchanged for another or differently shaped looper if the size of the thread, the type of material being operated upon, the type of stitch desired,'or other factors make such change desirable.

The overedge looper mechanism 38 comprises a crank arm 88 which is mounted at its upper end by means of a ball and socket joint 89 on the crank 48 of the main drive shaft 49, and is pivotally connected at its lower end to a lateral arm 99 mounted on a shaft 9| which is pivotally mounted in a suitable bearing on th depending housing 44. A looper carrier 92 is likewise secured to shaft 9| and is pivotally connected to the lower end of overedge looper 93 by a screw 94. Intermediate its length, looper 93 is further pivotally connected by a screw 95 to a crank arm 96 which, in turn, is adapted to pivot about a shaft 91 secured to the depending housing 44 by a strap 98. This mechanism imparts to the overedge looper 93 both a vertical and oscillatory movement so that when the crank 48 is in the uppermost position, the looper carrier 92 is moved into its lowest position whereby the looper 93 is placed entirely below the work support 3| and the materials being sewed, as shown in full lines in Fig. 7.

If, on the other hand, the crank 48 is rotated to the lowermost position, the looper is lifted to a point above th work plate 3| and then counterclockwise movement is imparted to the looper 93 about shaft 91 to move the thread-carrying point of the looper 93 over the upper surface of the material to co-operate with the needle IS in a well-known manner.

In general, and depending upon the type of seam desired, the lower looper mechanism 3'! may carry a hook-type looper I9, as shown in Figs. 13 and 1'7, or carry an eye-type looper I9, as shown particularly in Figs. 7, 15 and 19. Similarly, the overedge looper mechanism 38 may carry a hook-type overedge looper 93', as shown in Figs. 13 and 15, or an eye-type overedge looper 93, as shown particularly in Figsr'l, 17 and, 19. The main body sectioneof all the loopers and structure for supporting and driving the same is alike, the only difference being in the shape at the top end. as illustrated. A change-over from one type of looper to another may be easily accomplished in the case of the lower looper by removing the screws 81, and in the case of the overedge looper by removing the pivot. screws 94 and 95.

When the loopers I9 and 93' of a hook-type (Fig; 13) are used, and a thread 99 is carried through the work I99 by the needle 19, the lower hook-type looper 19 catches the needle loop, carries it to the edge of the material where the overedge hook-type looper 93' catche it in the notch I9I during its upward movement and during retraction of the lower looper 19' to carry it into the path of the needle to form the stitch type 501, as shown in Fig. 14.

When the eye-type lower looper I9 and a hook-type overedge'looper 9.3 (Fig. 15) are used, the lower looper I9 and a lower looper thread I92 are passed through the loop of the needle thread 99, whereupon the notch ill of the overedge looper.93 catches the lower looper thread to carry it upwardly over the edge of the work and into the path of the needle to form the double thread seam, type 502, clearly illustrated in Fig. 16.

When a lower hooked looper ,I9' and an overedge eye-type looper 93 (Fig. 1'1) are used, the lower looper I9 catches the loop of the needle thread 99 and carries it to the outer edge of the work I99 where the overedge looper 93 carrying an upper looper thread I93 passes through the needle loop upwardly over the work and into the path of the needle which, as it passes into the work, catches and holds the looper thread I92 to form the overedge seam, type 503, shown in Fig. 18. v

Three-thread seams are formed by the lower eye-type looper I9 and the overedge eye-type looper 93 (Fig. 19). The lower looper 19 catches the loop of the needle thread 99, carries its own lower looper thread I92 to the edge of the work I99 where the overedge looper, while carrying its own upper looper thread I93 over the work to be engaged by the needle, passes through the lower looper thread I92. By suitable adjustment of the thread-handling mechanism 34 the threethread seams, type 504 or 505 of Figs. 20 and 21 respectively, may be formed.

If desired, a horn I94 on the plate 18 may also be provided to assist in forming the stitches, as shown in Figs. 6, 13, 15, 17 and 19. Furthermore, a second horn I95 may be provided on the presser, foot 62 (Fig. 2) to overlie and com-- plement the lower horn I94. One or both of these horns I94 and I95 may, however, be omitted, or modified in size and shape, if the material to be sewed possesses suflicient body or stiffness to hold the loop, or if any other reasons make such omission or modification desirable.

Thread-handling mechanism Ordinarily, the threading of an overedge sewing machine and especially one in which three threads are used, is a diiiicult operation. The operating parts of many of these machines needle and loopers.

"looper threads in both directions of its movewhich may known prior. inventionareat suchinaccessible and awkward, places that theyarious threads must be passed through divers paths changing theirg'eneral direction frequently'and increasing the difliculty of properly threading the Furthermore, in overedge sewing machines operating at extremely high speeds, there is considerable danger that the threads in passing from the supply through the thread take-up and guiding means and to the needle and loopers are either easily-strained to an impermissible extent, or that excessive slack is formed in the threads which may result in whipping, tangling, kinking, or knotting thereof. Both such excessive tension and slack' in the threads usually cause improper feeding of the thread to the needle" and loopers, inaccurate and irregular formation of the stitches, and frequent breakage of the threads and of the needle. 1 v

The thread-handling mechanism 34 of the present invention includes various ,new features differing both in principle and structure from thread-handling mechanisms of somewhat similar outward appearance'as suggested prior to this invention. The new mechanism is unusually ellicient'in operation and overcomes all of the above-mentioned disadvantages very effectively. Particularly, the various elements of this mechanism 34 are so positioned and constructed that the machine may be easily threaded, the paths and the movement of all the threads may be easily "observed and adjusted for proper tensionmg and slack control, so that tangling and breaking of the threads may be practically avoided.

For obtaining 'theseadvantageous results, it is of particular importance, according to the present invention, that a single movable, take-up finger I06 be provided for controllingall of'the' threads, which acts upon both the needle an ment. It is further of importance for the proper control of the lower looper thread I02 that the.

movable take-up finger I06 is provided with a plurality of thread-engaging portions, that one portion engages the looper thread at all times and that the take-up finger cooperates with a 'stationary.element in such a manner that another portion of thetake-up finger I06 engages the looper thread only during a part of its movements. 7 1

Considering the thread-handling mechanism 34 more in detail, it will be seen from the drawings that a battery of thread-tension devices I08, I09 and I I0 for thelower looper, needle and overedge looper threads I02, 99 and I03 respectively, are secured to an upstanding flange I II of the work plate 3I at the right side end thereof.

These tension devices may be of customary con struction and each includes a pair of discs II2 which are yieldingly urged toward each other by suitable spring means H8 the tension of be adjusted by an adjusting screw II4.

For guiding the threads I02, 99 and I03 from a suitable sourcepf supply to'the tension discs H2 and for exerting a snubbing'action upon the threads to prevent yanking thereof throughth'e tensions, there is provided a stationary thread guide II5 having a base II6 which is secured by means of tensions I08, I09, IIII to the flange I I I. A vertical, substantially oval or loop-shaped upright J on base H8 is closely spaced from tensionsl08, I09 and H0 and comprises acentral arm II a pairpf'side anns I I9 which are curved'outwardly relative to arm III, and a curved top arm I20 connecting theside arms II8 with the upper end of, central arm III. Series of threadeyes I 2| are provided in each of the ner'and are then returned through the same lower eyes I2I and directed toward the take-up and tensioning unit I22.

, By forming the thread guide II5 for the various threads as a singleelement and by making the same'oi, substantially voval or loop shape, as shown in the drawings, the danger of entanglement of the threads with the guide is avoided. Even if during feeding, the threads should whip considerably and consequently loop about the outer ends I23 of the guide II5, such loops will immediately .slide off the guide and disappear because, of the curved shape of the guide.

The take-up and tensioning unit I22 comprises a movable take-up and control finger I06, and a normallyfstationary guide member forming a casing I24 surrounding the take-up finger I06, as

, shown particularly in Figs. 1, 2, 4, 9 and 10. The take-up finger I 06 which, comprises a base I25 and in direct timed relation with the lower looper- Take-up finger I06 is providedsubstantially at its upper end or apex I28 with a thread eye I29 .for operatingupon the needle thread 99. Furthermore, for operating upon the lower looper thread I02, take-up finger I06 is provided with a second thread eye I30 at the free end of the arm I21, and a thread-engaging notch I3I in the rounded upper edge I32 of the arm I21 near the apex I28.g

'The stationary guide casing I24 which surrounds the reciprocati'ng take-up finger I06 is mounted on the top housing 1I intermediate upwardly projecting portions I33 thereof which forms a guide-way for preventing lateral movement ofcasing, I24- As shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4, 9 and 10, thelatter comprises rightand left side walls I34 and I35 respectively, having a diagonally upwardly projecting forward portion I36 and an upwardly projecting rear portion I31, front and top walls I38 and I39 on said forward portion, and a solid top portion I40 connecting the upper ends of the rear portion I31 of side walls I34 and I35.

As shown particularly in Figs. 9 and 10, the central portions HI and I42 ofside walls I 34 and I35 are recessed at their upper edges relative to the forward and rear portions =I36-and I40. A screw I43, the head I44 of which rests on the upper edges of the recessed portions I and I 42 of side walls I34 and I35, is inserted between these side walls and threaded into the top housing 1 I. Thus, the entire guide casing I24 may be adjustably secured in various positions forwardly or rearwardly of top housing H by the single screw I43. Thread eyes I45 and I45 for the lower-looper thread I02 are provided in central portions I and I42 near their upper edges for accommodating and guiding the lower looper thread I02 from its tension I08 through the eye I45 in the right side wall I34, then over the rounded upper edge of arm I21 of the take-up finger I05, and then through the eye I45 in the left side wall I35. As indicated in Fig. 11, the relative position of eyes I45 and I45 is such that the lower looper thread extends in a substantially straight line from its tension I08 through these eyes when the take-up finger I05 is substantially at the end of its rearward movement.

An aperture I41 is provided in the forward end of the casing I24 substantially midway of the height of front wall I38, and a guide member I48 is adjustably secured by means of a screw I49 to the left side wall I35 above the aperture I41. This adjustable guide member I48 includes a downwardly extending arm I48 which is crooked so that its lower end which is likewise provided with a thread eye I50 for guiding the looper thread I02, is substantially in the same vertical plane as the left side wall I35. The position-of the adjustable thread eye I50 relative to the eye I30 in the take-up finger I05 is such that these two eyes are substantially coaxial when the take-up finger I05 is in its most forward position, as shown in Fig, 12. After passing through the eyes I45 and I45 in the side walls I34 and I35 of the casing, the lower looper thread I02 passesalong the left side wall I35 and through the adjustable eye I50 and then through the eye I30 in the take-up finger I05. Thereafter, the looper thread I02 is directed through a guide tube II which is mounted on work plate 3I and extends therethrough; then in back of a guide plate I52 on a slide member I53 below the work plate 3|; then through an eye I54 at the left end of slide member I53 and finally through the looper eye I55.

When in the operation of the machine the lower looper 19 starts forwardly, the take-up finger I05 moves backwardly, thereby positively drawing up the slack in the lower looper thread I02, as indicated in Fig. 1. After completing its backward stroke, the take-up finger proceeds forwardly, thereby releasing the looper thread I02,

while the lower looper 19 continues its forward stroke. During this forward movement of the take-up finger I05, the upper edge I32 thereof contacts the lower looper thread I02 which is finally caught by the notch I3I, as indicated in Fig. 12. Thereupon, while the lower looper 19 moves backwardly and the take-up finger completes its forward stroke and proceeds to move backwardly, the notch I3I, the stationary eyes I45, I45 and I50, and the eye I30 in the takeup finger cooperate to take up and tighten the lower looper thread, to draw the latter about the overedge looper 93, and to draw off further thread from the supply through the tension I08.

After the take-up finger I05 has reached an intermediate position during its backward stroke in which the notch I3I is rearwardly of the eyes I45 and I45, the looper thread I02 is disengaged from and slips out of notch I3I, as indicated in Fig. 1, after the lower looper 19 arrives at the end of its backward stroke and starts its forward movement,

A plurality of laterally spaced threadeyes I55 and'l51 for the overedge looper thread I33 are further provided in side walls I34 and I35 in the rear of and slightly below the lower looperthread eyes I45 and I43, respectively. By passing the thread I33 through one or another of these eyes I55 and I51 in each wall I34 and I35,- the direction of the thread through the guide casing I24 as well as the position thereof relative to the movable take-up finger I03 may be adjusted to vary the amount of slack as well as the amount of feeding of the overedge looper thread I03 from its tension II3.

After passing through eyes I55 and I51, the overedge looper thread I33 passes forwardly and downwardly through a guide tube I53 mounted in the top housing H. A further guide member I59 which is open toward the bottom is provided on the needle plate 18 and is located within a vertical plane passing through the forward end I50 of the guide tube and the overedge looper 93 as shown most clearly in Figs. 1 and 2. The purpose of guide member I53 is to guide thread I03 to the overedge looper when the same moves above the work plate 3I and the material to be sewed, to prevent the thread I33 from whipping. and to assist in taking up and drawing the overedge looper thread from its tension II3.

In the operation of the machine, the upright I25 of the take-up finger I05 acts at the end of its backward movement upon the overedge looper thread to take up its slack and draw the same gigml its tension IIO, as indicated particularly in For guiding the needle thread 33 from its tension I09, relative to the take-up finger I05, and toward the needle 15, there is provided a guide element I5I of substantially inverted U-shaped cross-section which is mounted on the rear top portion I40 of the casing I24, so that its side arms I52 and I53 enclose the upper ends of the side walls I34 and I35 to prevent lateral shifting of member I5I. The latter may be secured in various positions of adjustment longitudinally of easing I24 by means of a screw I54 passing through an elongated slot I55 in the central portion of the U-shaped member I5I and threaded into the top portion I43 of the casing I24. An outwardly curved and downwardly extending guide finger I55 projects forwardly from the right side arm I52 of the U-shaped member, and is provided with a thread eye I51 which is located within a vertical plane intermediate the eyes I45.

and I55 for the lowerand overedge looper threads I02 and I03, respectively. A second, likewise outwardly curved guide finger I53 projects forwardly from the left side arm I33 of the U-shaped member I5 I, and is provided with an elongated thread eye I59.

A further guide memberor thread controller I10 for the needle thread. is adjustably mounted on the left side arm I53 of the U-shaped member I5I by a screw I1I passing through an.

elongated slot I12 in thread controller I13, and

carries at its forward end a diagonally down-' wardly extending control finger I13 which is 104 cated in-substantially the same vertical plane as the left side wall I35, and intermediate the takeup finger I05 and the left guide finger I53.

For guiding the needle thread 33 from the elongated eye I59 in guide finger I53 toward the needle 15, a guide plate I14 is mounted bymeans of a screw I15 on an upstanding projection I15 of the work plate 3I at the left side of ingthe guide casing I24 the endof its forward the top housing 1I. A thread eye I11 is provided in the guide plate I14 nearits upper edge and the rear end thereof. Guide plate I14 terminates at its forward end into an angular finger I19 likewise provided witha thread eye I19 which is located ina straight line withthe groove 16' in the needle 1.6so that when the needle is int. downward position the needle thread 99 is always located within the groove 16'. j

After passing from its tension I09 through the eye I61 inthe guide finger I66, then through the eye I29 in the take-up finger I06, and then through the elongated eye I69 in the left guide finger I69, the needle thread .99 passes through the eyes I11 and I19 in-the guide plate I14 and toward the needle eye I99. 3

The relative position of eyes I61, I29, I69 and I11 is such that when the take-up finger I06 is in an intermediate position during its forward movement. the needle thread 99 is directed in a substantially straight path from its tension I09'to the eye I11. v

For indicating the proper position of guide casing I24 relative to the tensions I99, I99 and I I0, and particularly relative to the take-up finger I96, indicating lines or marks vI9I and I92 are provided on the side wall I34 of guide casing I24 and on the upper surface of the corresponding projection I33 of the top housing'II.

to its proper position, after screw I43 has been loosened, the guide (2) As the needle '16 approaches the bottom of its stroke while passing through the material, and begins its upward movement, the lower looper 10; moves forwardly, or in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. '7, and passes through the needle loop. Concurrently, the lower looper ,threadp slides out of notch I3 I of the rearwardly moving take-up finger I96; however, since the lower looper thread is still engaged by the eye I of the take-up finger I06, the latter takes up the, slack in the lower looper thread I02 during its continued rearward movement. Also, during such rearward movement, take-up finger I96 controls the slack in the needle thread 99, and as it approaches its rearmost position, it works against the overedge looper thread I03 to pull off a new supply of overedge looper thread for thenext stitch. During the latter part of the rearward movement of'the take-up finger I96, it lays the needle thread 99 over the thread controller I13 to pull upqthe needle thread99 and thereby causes the needle thread to rise with the eye I99 of the a needle; thus, overcoming kinking and twisting of For adjustcasing is moved forwardly or rearwardly intermediate the projections I33 to bring lines III and I92 into coincidence.

Furthermore, by adjusting theposition of the eedle thread eyes I61 and 169, and the thread controlleral19 relative to the take-up finger I06, different types of stitches may beformed. For

, facilitating such adjustment, indicatinglines I93 and I94 are provided on the side wall I62 of the U-shaped guide element I6I. -III-the element I6I is adjusted, as shown in Fig. 1, so that the rear line I93is in line with lines m and m on the ,guide casing I24 and on the projection I33, re-

spectively, a regular overedge stitch isvformed, while when the front line I9I and I92, a box-edge stitch is formed.

The operation of the various elements of the sewing and thread-handling mechanisms of the .present invention relative to each other is broadly as follows:

45 while the take-up I94 coincides with lines (1) As the needle It begins its downward.

movement, the take-up finger moves from an intermediate and pulls just enough needle I96 concurrently position forwardly thread 99 fromthe the needle thread, and effectively preventing adversely drawing of the thread back and forth through the eye I99 of the needle. This close and effective control of .the needle thread" 99 occurs at a critical time in the formation of the stitch, and thereby insures a proper and uniform seam formation.

3) As the needle 16 proceeds in its upward motion, leaving the material, lower looper-19 continues to move forwardly, the overedge looper 93 starts its forward or upward motion, and thetake-up finger I96 likewise moves forwardly, thereby disengaging from the overedge looper thread I93 and releasing the lower looper thread, and the needle thread 99 which slides off the thread controller I13. a v

(4) Next, as the needle 16 continues to'move backwardly and approaches the end of its upward movement, the lower looper 19 reaches the end of its forward stroke, the overedge looper 93 picks up the lower loop from the lower looper 19, flnger- I96 continues to move forwardly still releasing the needle thread 99. Thereupon the cycle of movements of the various elements .is repeated in the same manner as stated above 1 4 By providing the novel thread-handling mechanism according to the present invention, the fol' lowing advantages are obtained:

(A) During the descent of the needle:

(1) No strain is placed on the needle thread 99 until the needle eye I99 in its downward movesupply through the tension I99 topermit the needle eye I99 to reach its lowest position. This pulling of the needle thread 99 from the supply is completed when the take-up finger I96 reaches movement; just as the needle point I90 passes the overedge looper 93,

and before the needle reaches the material.

Also, as the take-up finger I06 moves forwardly," the lower looper thread I02 is caught by the notch.

ment passes through a. line drawn between the eye I19 at .the forward end of the guide plate I14, and thepoint of the previous penetration of the needle 16 through the material.

(2) The needlev thread -99 is pulled through the tension I99 before the loop is shed from the lower looper 19.

(3) No strain is placed on the 'needle thread 99 as the needle eye I90 passes the eye of the over- I3I (approximately at, or just prior to, the be-] edge looper 93 and engages the overedge looper ginning of the downward movement of the:

needle), and as the take-up finger I06 continues the lower looper its forward movement, and after thread I92 has been engaged by the overedge looper 93, it takes up the slack in the thread of the receding lower looper 19, draws said thread, tautly about the overedge looper, andpulls on I02 from the supply:

new lower looper through the tension I99.

material, however, without thread.

lower looper thread I02 to such an extent as to prevent a correct setting of the latter.

(B) During the ascent of the needle:

(1) As the needle I9 moves upwardly, the takeup finger I exerts Just sufllcient pull upon the needle thread 99 by moving the same along the thread controller I so as to cause the needle thread 99 in front of the needle 16 to travel at the same speed as the needle so'as to keep the needle thread 99 within the groove I6 of the needle and to prevent the formation of a kink. This also causes the needleloop to be thrown out directly behind the needle I6, and the thread intermediate the needle eye I80 and the last stitch is sufilcient to form an adequate needle loop by the time the point 01' the lower looper I9 has arrived at its loop-taking position.

(2) During the movement of the needle I6 towards the end of its backward stroke and movement of the needle eye I80 toward the rear of the line passing from the eye I19 in the guide plate I'll to the last point of penetration of the needle, the take-up finger I06 moves forwardly again so that all strains are fully removed from the needle (C) In the movement of the lower looper:

(1) A continuous supply of thread is provided for the lower looper I! both before and. during its advance through the loop in the needle thread 99, and no strain whatever is placed upon the lower looper thread I02 until after the same is engaged by the overedge looper 93.

(2) New lower looper thread is drawn by the take-up finger I06 from the supply through its tension I08 after the lower looper thread I02 has been engaged by the overedge looper 93 and before the latter starts to retreat.

(3) The strain in the lower looper thread I02 is relaxed sufficiently to allow the same to shed its loop from the overedge looper 93 without danger of its breaking thereby.

(4) The loop in the lower looper thread I02 sets very quickly between the moment or shedding of this loop from the overedge looper 93 and the descent of the needle I6 to its lowest position.

(D) In the movement of the overedge looper 93, sumcient thread is drawn through the tension IIO to provide that when the overedge looper 93 reaches the end of its upward stroke, the overedge looper thread I03, which is about to be engaged by the descending needle 10 is released from any strain.

Variations and modifications may be made within the scope of this invention and portions of the improvements may be used without others.

What we claim is:

1. In an overedge sewing machine having a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one movable looper, and a feeding vmechanism, the combination of only one movable take-up and control member for operating on threads to said needle and looper respectively; driving means for concurrently operating said sewing and feeding mechanisms and said takeup member; means associated with said take-up member for separately guiding said threads from a supply to said needle and said looper, said guiding means having first guide portions for said looper thread disposed at opposite sides of said take-up member and also having a second guide portion 101- said looper thread; a first means on said take-up member for operating on said looper thread, having a motion transverse relative to a line connecting said first guide portions, said motion and said first guide portions being so related and said first means being so formed that said first means engages said looper thread during only one phase of the movement of the take-up member to draw the looper thread from a thread supply and disengages from said looper thread during a second phase of the movement; and a second means on said take-up member having a motion relative to said second guide portion, for engaging said looper thread and tightening the same intermediate the sewing mechanism and the take-up member during the second phase of the movement of the latter.

2. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, comprising means on the one take-up member for acting on the needle thread in two directions of movement of the take-up member and on at least one looper thread in at least one direction.

3. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, including normally stationary means associated with the take-up member for taking up slack in the needle thread and being in en-' gagement with the needle thread only during one phase of the movement of the take-up member.

4. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, in which the guiding means includes normally stationary guide portions at opposite sides of and adjacent the take-up and control member for guiding the needle thread relative to the take-up member; and normally stationary means intermediate the movable take-up member and normally stationary guide portion at one side of the take-up member for taking up slack in the needle thread.

5. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, including adjustable thread tensions intermediate the thread supply and the movable take-up member adapted with the take-up member to alter the form of stitch; and stationary means for controlling and guiding the threads intermediate the supply and the tensions.

6. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, including adjustable thread tensions intermediate the thread supply and the movable take-up member adapted with the take-up member to alter the form of stitch; stationary means for controlling and guiding the threads intermediate the supply and the tensions; and means for varying the friction exerted by the lastmentioned controlling means upon the threads.

'7. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, including adjustable thread tensions in-' termediate the thread supply and the movable take-up member adapted with the take-up member to alter the form of stitch; stationary means for controlling and guiding the threads intermediate the supply and the tensions; and means on said stationary control means for preventing entangling of said threads about said control means.

8. An overedge sewing machineaccording to claim-1, including means on the take-up member for taking up slack in the needle thread during both movements of the take-up member and for positively drawing needle thread from the supply during only a part of said movements.

9. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, in which the first and second means on the take-up and control member are respectively a notch portion and an eyelet portion.

10. An overedge sewing machine according to claim 1, including a driving means for operating the sewing and feeding mechanism and the takeup memberand in which. the driving means include a single drive shaft and inwhich the at least one looper is a lower looper; means on said shaft for producing a relatively slow" short ascending stroke of the needle; and means on said shaft for producing a relatively l'ong, quick needle-loop-taking stroke of the lower looper so that the latter slides freely and quickly through the needle-loop during the ascending stroke of the needle.

11. Inan overedgesewingma'chirie having a a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one movable looper, a feeding mechanism and driving means for operating said sewing andfeeding mechanisms; only one'movable take-up and control member of'angular extent operated by said driving means so asto act upon threads supplied to said looper and needle, said take-up member having a notch in its upper edge near the apex thereof, and a thread-guiding aperture substantially at the free end thereof; a pair of stationary guidemernbers adjacent and at both sides of said take-up member, having a ment and through the aperturevin the take-up member and then to said sewingimechanism.

12. In an overedge' sewing machine having a 'sewing mechanism including a movable needle guiding means having first guide portions for ing said looper thread during only one phase of pair of thread-guiding apertures substantially in line with each other and associated with the notch in said take-up member; and an adjustable normally stationary guiding element on oneof said guide members spaced from the apertures in said guide members and associated with the aperture in said take-up member, one of the threads passing through said apertures 1 in said guide members and being engaged by the notch in said take-up member during one phase of the movement thereof and being disengaged during the secondphase of movement, said thread further passing through-said adjustable guiding eleand at least one movable. looper, and a feeding mechanism, the combination of only one movable take-up and control member for operating on threadsto said needleand looper respectively; driving means for concurrently operating said sewing and feeding mechanisms and said takeup member: means associated with said take-up member for separately guiding said threads from a supply to said needleand said looper, said said looper thread disposed at opposite sides of said take-up member and also having a second guide portion for said looper thread; a notch portion on said take-up member for operating on said looper thread, having a motion transverse from one side to'the other side of a line connecting said first guide portions for engagthe movement of the take-up member to draw the looper thread from athreadsupply and for disengaging from said looper thread during a second phaseof the movement; and an eyelet portion on said take-up member having a'motion relative to said second guide portion, for .engaging said looper thread and tightening the same intermediate the sewing mechanism and the take-up member during the second phase of the movement of the latter.

GILBERT LAWRENCE SUMMERS. HARRY SLATER. 

